Elegantly Simple Left Slanting Triple Decrease

There are 2 techniques in this month’s Elegantly Simple KAL that you might not have used before:

  • the 3\ left slanting triple decrease
  • the /3 right slanting triple decrease

These decreases produce beautifully embossed, sculpted lines in the Elegantly Simple stitch pattern. They might look complicated, but are simply made up of several stitch maneuvers you already know how to do.

completed left slanting triple decrease

I’ve given step-by-step written instructions for these special triple decreases in the Abbreviations section of the Elegantly Simple Baby Blanket pattern. If you don’t over-think what you are doing and just follow the instructions, the multiple steps will not seem like such a mystery.

If you are a visual person, the step-by step photo series below and in the next support article are for you!  Continue reading

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Elegantly Simple Feather and Fan Shetland Lace

— elegant results with bit-sized steps in simple knitting —

Our June KAL features a beautiful stitch pattern from the Shetland lace family of feather and fan stitches. Stitch patterns in this family are characterized by a series of yarn overs on the same row without intervening compensating decreases. Instead, the compensating decreases are made using either of 2 methods.

1. A compound decrease is each made to left and right of the series of yarn overs (as they are in our June KAL patterns).

Elegantly Simple Baby Blanket in Shetland feather and fan lace

Elegantly Simple Baby Blanket in Shetland feather and fan lace using compensating left- and right-slanting triple decreases on a single row

2. The compensating decreases are completed on subsequent rows (an example is the stitch pattern used in the hand portion of my Terzetto Lace Mitts design).

Terzetto Lace Mitts

Terzetto Lace Mitts with Shetland feather and fan lace in hand portion (stitch pattern uses compensating single decreases over multiple rows)

Simpler than it looks

Shetland feather and fan lace stitch patterns are popular because they look complicated, but usually are quite easy to knit. For the Elegantly Simple bookmark and baby blanket projects in our June KAL, we have both elegance and simple techniques.

Note how the beginning and ending borders are gracefully scalloped, and the side borders also have dainty small scallops. There are a lot of interesting things going on in the interior of the fabric as well, with the the curvy textural elements of the compound decrease and gentle waves of eyelets.

This is all accomplished with just 4 rows, and 3 of those are basically “rest” rows! (i.e. simple plain knit/purl in rows 2 – 4)

Row 1 is the only lace patterning row. It a little more complicated and you will need to pay some attention especially when first learning the somewhat unusual left- and right-slanting triple decreases used in this particular variation of feather and fan.

Elegantly Simple Bookmark

Elegantly Simple Bookmark can be used to practice, or just because you want to knit this beautiful stitch pattern in a small, quick project

Once you practice a bit (I’ve included a free bookmark project just for that purpose!), the stitch pattern just sort of flows and comes off so easily from the needles, looking more complicated than it really is. You will impress everyone!

I’ve given step-by-step written instructions for the special triple decreases in the Abbreviations section of the Baby Blanket pattern. If you are a visual person, I’ll also have support articles here at KnitHeartStrings with photos that break these 2 triple decrease techniques into bit-sized simple steps. Stay tuned!

p.s. Last year’s 2013 BOBBOL, the Mini Flag used another Shetland lace pattern from the Old Shale family of stitch patterns, from which feather and fan derived.

 

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Easy 1-2-3 Pattern Outline for Elegantly Simple Bookmark

Elegantly Simple Bookmark is a good example of how you can take a stitch pattern in one of your favorite patterns (such as the Elegantly Simple Baby Blanket) and adapt it easily for something else.

Or like this little project, to work a couple of stitch pattern repeats as a sample practice swatch and turn it into a useful article! In this case, the Elegantly Simple Bookmark also takes advantage of the naturally double-scalloped edge to make a decorative pleated end to which a beaded tassle is attached.

What you’ll need for this project

Elegantly Simple Bookmark

  • download the Elegantly Simple Baby Blanket pattern for free at the HeartStringsFiberArts.com website; this pattern has the instructions and abbreviations you will need for knitting the pattern stitch
    (note: There is no obligation nor requirement to donate; you can just skip past that section and click the link for “Proceed Directly to Download”)
  • size 10 crochet thread or fingering weight yarn; amount is not critical because we won’t be making this practice piece to an exact size: about 35 – 40 yards should do it
    (note: you could also use a heavier yarn which probably would produce a too-wide bookmark, but feel free to be creative and turn your “practice swatch” into something else <g>)
  • knitting needles appropriate to the thread/yarn size. Tip to help you select needle size
  • coordinating pony bead for head of tassel (i.e. a largish size bead with a large enough hole to pull several strands of your thread/yarn; don’t stress over getting a bead for this — there are other ways of making a tassel

Easy 1-2-3 Pattern Outline

1. Cast on 30 stitches.

This little bookmark is made in Shetland knitted lace from the feather and fan family of stitch patterns. This is the same stitch pattern as the Elegantly Simple Baby Blanket using just 2 multiples of the stitch pattern.

This feather and fan stitch variation has become one of my favorite pattern stitches, and I was interested to try it on a smaller scale. It just sort of flows and comes off so easily from the needles, looking more complicated than it really is. For the bookmark shown in the picture, my thread was hand-spun cotton.

2. Work pattern stitch instructions in Elegantly Simple Baby Blanket to length desired.

Instead of a bunch of stitches needed for making the baby blanket, you only have 30 stitches. So the instructions simply become:

Knit one row.

Row 1: sl 1 wyif, 3\, (yo, k1) 5 times, yo, /3, p2, 3\, (yo, k1) 5 times, yo, /3, k1.

Note: Remember to refer your downloaded pattern of Elegantly Simple Baby Blanket for an explanation of the abbreviations.

Row 2: sl 1 wyif, p13, k2, p13, k1.

Row 3: sl 1 wyif, k13, p2, k14.

Row 4: Repeat row 2.

Repeat these 4 rows until about 6″ or desired length, and completing row 1.

Knit one row.

Bind off loosely.

Weave in cast on and bind off yarn ends invisibly.

3. Pleat and attach tassel.

After blocking and stiffening your bookmark if desired, “pleat” the cast on edge and whip the zig-zag points together with the ties of a hand-made tassel made in the same thread. I used a coordinating turquoise-lined large glass bead as the “head” of my tassel.

Posted in Bits of Lace | 5 Comments

Next Up KAL: Charity Knitting Made Elegantly Simple

— Charity Knitting Made Simply Elegant —

June’s featured learn-and-knit-along in the Beyond BOBBOL 2014 Series will focus on charity knitting. For this KAL only, everyone will be able to get the main project patterns for free!

First, we’ll knit a small bookmark to learn and practice a beautiful pattern stitch in the Shetland family of feather and fan stitches. The pattern stitch appears to be complicated with its multiple yarn overs and weird compound decreases, but in the KAL we’ll break it down into bit-sized steps with tips along the way that will make things simple. The pattern for this will be free for everyone in the KAL. I’m planning to have the pattern ready for you on June 5th, the usual date to start our monthly KAL’s.

Elegantly Simple Bookmark

Elegantly Simple Bookmark

Then you can move onto making a larger baby blanket if you want. It uses the same pattern stitch that we practice for the bookmark, so you’ll be ready to zoom along. The charity knitting pattern for Elegantly Simple Baby Blanket is free for everyone, too. Ideas for places to donate handmade baby items.

Elegantly Simple Baby Blanket charity knitting pattern

Elegantly Simple Baby Blanket

There will also be special discount offers June 5 – 25 on the companion Elegantly Simple Triangle Shawl pattern for KAL participants as an extra bonus. (Note: Premium members  get free Ravelry delivery of this pattern May 25 – June 30.)

Shopping List

For the small practice bookmark, you’ll need —

  • size 10 crochet thread or fingering weight yarn; amount is not terribly critical because we won’t be making this practice piece to an exact size: about 35 – 40 yards should do it
  • knitting needles appropriate to the thread size. Tip to help you select needle size
  • coordinating pony bead for head of tassel (i.e. a largish size bead with a large enough hole to pull several strands of your thread/yarn through); don’t stress over getting a bead for this — there are other ways of finishing the bookmark with a tassel

If you want to knit the baby blanket, you’ll need —

  • 1600 – 1800 yards sport weight yarn for finished size of approx 45″ x 45″ (figure proportionately less yardage for a smaller blanket)
  • size US 7 (4.5 mm) needles suggested

An Invitation to Join Us for KnitHeartStrings KAL’s

I hope you will join us to knit and learn along for Charity Knitting Made Simply Elegant as part of the Beyond BOBBOL series. If you are not yet a member of KnitHeartStrings, you can Join Here. There is lots of good knitting to come for 2014 Beyond BOBBOL!

Posted in Bits of Lace | 2 Comments

Ideas for Beaded and Twisted Cords

Lorna's Light necklace purse with chain of various types of beads, crystals, and semi-precious gemstones

Lorna’s Light necklace purse with chain of various types of beads, crystals, and semi-precious gemstones

A fun part of making a necklace purse is coming up with a coordinating cord to go around your neck. The Lorna’s Light pattern calls for a pre-made necklace chain or cord. You can purchase one, or re-cycle one from an old necklace, or even better — make your own unique creation!

Look around you for ideas, or just let your creative juices go free. Need help in getting jump started? Here are photos from a few of the necklace purses I have made. Note: Not all are the Lorna’s Light design and one is not even knitted, but the necklace cord ideas can be used interchangeably.

Simple Beaded Strand Cord

First up is a cord made simply of beads strung onto a strand of sturdy thread or bead stringing wire such as tiger tail beading cord.

Beaded bag with necklace cord of strung beads

Beaded bag with necklace cord of strung beads

In this example, the same beads were used in the necklace cord as were used in knitting the bag.

Fancy Beaded Strand Cord

Rather than simply stringing the same beads for the cord as above, you can use other coordinating beads, crystals and gemstones along with the beads used to knit the little purse. String them in whatever pleasing arrangement you want.

Closeup of beaded cord with various types of  beads, crystals and gemstones

Closeup of beaded cord with various types of beads, crystals and gemstones

Twisted Cord

Another idea is simply to make a twisted cord from the same thread used for knitting your purse. Make it fancier by adding a beaded strand to your cord before the final twisting step.

Twisted cord with beaded strand added

Twisted cord with beaded strand added

This twisted cord uses more of the same thread and same beads as were used in knitting the bag.

Fancy Beaded Twisted Cord

This cord combines twisted strands with single strands.

fancy twisted beaded cord

fancy twisted beaded cord

Tips for Designing Your Own

  1. Determine the desired length for your necklace cord. I prefer a necklace purse a little longer than my other necklace jewelry, so usually go for an approximate 30 – 32″ length. Your mileage my vary though, so test it out with a length of waste thread temporarily attached to the top sides of your completed mini-purse to see what length you feel comfortable wearing.
  2. If doing a “fancy” version with various beads, crystals, gemstones, etc., preliminarily lay out your beads in a test sequence. Then step back to observe. Rearrange as needed before actually stringing to make your necklace cord.
  3. If stringing beads, be sure to use a sturdy thread or bead stringing wire such as tiger tail beading cord.

Be creative and have fun! I’d love to see what you come up with, and I am sure other members would love to see. You can upload any photos you’d like to share at the KAL Projects Photo Gallery. If you need help posting photos, let me know and I will be happy to help.

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Purl Twist Right

How are you doing with Lorna’s Light, this month’s Precious Treasures KAL project? I  expect that the p1tr (purl 1 twist right) stitch used in Lorna’s Light might have been new to you. This is a stitch manipulation that intentionally twists the stitch.

Close cousins to the p1tr twist stitch are the more common k1tbl (knit 1 stitch through back loop) and p1tbl (purl 1 stitch through back loop). The “tbl” action results in a stitch loop that is twisted to the left.

By comparison, the p1tr stitch results in a stitch loop that is twisted to the right.

Why twist a stitch?

The reasons the Lorna’s Light pattern is designed with twisted stitches is twofold:

  1. Twisted stitches firm up the fabric. The added stiffness is an advantage for projects like a purse or bookmark where you want more structure to the fabric.
  2. Twisted stitches help lock in the tiny beads.

Step-by-step p1tr

Step-by-step instructions are included in the Lorna’s Light pattern. The relatively lengthy explanation might look intimidating at first. But it simply boils down to

  • re-mount next stitch opposite of normal,
  • then purl into that re-mounted stitch through front loop.

Note: You can avoid re-mounting the stitch by anticipating the reverse-mount in the previous row. This is more trouble than it probably is worth, because it turns a plain rest row of purl stitches into one that requires counting concentration. What you would do is to pick or throw the yarn in the opposite direction of normal for only those stitches that would otherwise need to be manipulated in the following row. Note: If you know about combined knitting, also see Peggy Laine’s comment at the end of this article.

The p1tr stitch is basically the same as a p1tbl stitch, except that the former twists the stitch to the right and the latter twists the stitch to the left. So feel free to try substituting p1tbl if you want to. However, most people find p1tbl more awkward to do than p1tr. Also, I find that p1tr helps keep the bead in place between the stitches while completing the stitch, whereas with p1tbl I have to be more careful that the bead doesn’t slip through the new stitch.

Alternatives to p1tr twisted purl stitches

If you really hate the twisted stitch manipulations, it’s not entirely necessary to do the twisted stitches called for in Lorna’s Light pattern as designed.

  • Alternative to get added stiffness: Apply a stiffening agent to the fabric.

You can starch the fabric after it has been knitted. The slight disadvantage of this alternative is that starch tends to be a temporary treatment that needs to be reapplied after a period of time of using the item.

  • Alternative to using twisted purl stitches: Use plain purl stitches.

In the Challenge of Tiny, I mentioned that if you don’t use beads, you can simplify the knitting by substituting plain purl stitches for all the p1tr twisted purl stitches. Even if you are using beads you can use plain purl stitches and get by. Just realize that the beads will not be quite as stable in the fabric.

If you know about combined knitting, read this

Peggy Laine wrote (on Ravelry):

Working on Lorna’s Light. Still having a terrible time holding these microscopic needles, but things are going a little faster for me now. Finally realized the stitch mount for placing the beads is the same as the purl mount for combined knitting, which is my preferred method. So I purl back combined, and the only stitches to be manipulated on the knit side are the K2tog. Goes a bit quicker when every bead mount does not have to be pre-manipulated. Just thought I’d share!

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Counting beads needed for a project

Peggy L asked: “Do you have an approximate count of beads required for the separate parts of the purse? Since I’m stringing them by hand, it would be nice to know!

Lorna’s Light is one of the earliest patterns I wrote for knitting with beads. You might have noticed the original copyright year was 1999. Actually, I began designing and writing Lorna’s Light in 1998 — over 15 years ago!

One of the things you also probably noticed about this “older” pattern, compared to those I have spoiled you with so far in our KAL’s, is that specific number of beads to be strung is not given. Since many patterns out there omit this type information, this KAL gives me the opportunity to share some pointers in how to count the number of beads needed.

high quality Japanese beads come loose rather than on pre-strung strands

high quality Japanese beads come loose rather than on pre-strung strands

This is especially useful if you are stringing loose beads by hand, rather than just transferring beads from strands of a pre-strung hank. But even if you are simply transferring beads, it is still helpful to have a good idea of how many you will need for each piece beforehand.

lower quality Czech beads can be purchased in hanks of pre-strung strands

lower quality Czech beads can be purchased in hanks of pre-strung strands

Counting beads for each part of the purse

The purse is knitted in 2 pieces: 1) the purse back + flap; 2) the purse front. If you make your own necklace chain/cord, you might optionally want to incorporate more beads in that, too.

Rather than stringing all beads needed for the entire project before starting to knit anything, you can string just what you need for one part before beginning to knit.

Here are the bead counts for each Chart. Feel free to re-check my numbers to practice counting and make sure I have counted correctly! You can use either the chart graphic (count the slip bead-p1tr symbols) or add up the number of beads in each row of the corresponding written instructions.

Chart A = 60 beads

Chart B = 116 beads

Chart C = 120 beads

Chart D = 32 beads

Chart E = 82 beads

Once the number of beads in each Chart have been determined, the totals for the 2 knitted pieces of the purse can be totaled as follows —

1. Purse back + flap:

Chart A: 60
2 x Chart B: 2 x 116 = 232
Chart D: 32
Chart E:  82
TOTAL: 406 beads

2. Purse front:

Chart A: 60
Chart B: 116
Chart C: 120
TOTAL: 296 beads

Did you get the same answers?

Note: If you want to make your own custom necklace chain to attach to the purse, you might want to incorporate extra beads you have left over (or even other accent beads and crystals such as shown in the photo or included in the Necklace Chain findings packs that some of you purchased from me). There are no definite number of beads needed for this, but later this month I will show you some ideas.

Counting beads for the bookmarks

Need more practice? Let’s count the beads needed for the bookmarks now. The bookmarks are made in one piece, so ideally you would string all beads needed before starting to knit.

Bookmark with 2 pointed ends:

Chart A: 60
6 x Chart B: 6 x 116 = 696
Chart E:  82
TOTAL: 838 beads

Bookmark with 1 pointed end:

Chart A: 60
6 x Chart B: 6 x 116 = 696
Chart C:  120
TOTAL: 876 beads

Counting beads per inch

A good way to approximate the number of beads you are stringing is to first determine the number of beads per inch. This is the number of beads strung side-by-side in one inch. For these beads pictured below, it looks like its about 17 beads per inch.

determining beads per inch

beads per inch

Then calculate the length of beads you need to string as follows:

divide (total beads needed) by (beads per inch) = length in inches of strung beads

For example, for the Purse Back + Flap section, you would need to string 406 beads / 17 beads per inch = 23.882352″ of strung beads. You and I aren’t going to remember that silly number for long, so go ahead and round it up to an even 24″ to make it easy on ourselves, lol.

Tip: Beads can vary in size somewhat, especially moreso for lower quality Czech beads. If you are seeing quite a bit of variation, it will be more accurate to calculate beads per inch by first measuring over 2 inches, then dividing by 2.

beads per 2 inches

beads per 2 inches

Keeping on track by counting beads each row

Since the late 90’s when I first got bitten by the bead bug, my love for beads has grown exponentially, as well as my experience. One of the things I have found useful is to know how many beads to expect in each row (or each stitch multiple of a long row/round). Especially in more complicated patterns like Lorna’s Light, this helps spot some beading mistakes when they can still can be corrected relatively easily. Review Bead Row Pre-Counting Tip

The original publication of Lorna’s Light did not include written instructions corresponding to the charts. For this KAL, I upgraded pattern with written instructions. For your convenience, I also took the opportunity to include bead counts for each row in the written instructions. Let me know if you have any problems with these.

p.s. Did you know that Beaded Smoke Ring was the very first pattern I wrote for knitting with beads? (1997)

 

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