5 Tips for Selecting a Perfect Waste Thread

Waste thread  – (in knitting) a temporary thread that will be removed later

Although the term “waste thread” is widely accepted in knitting instructions, I feel it is somewhat a misnomer. To me it implies something that has no value. I don’t want someone thinking they can just grab anything and it will work fine. Although it might, it might not. Similar to how you give much consideration to selecting the actual (permanent) thread for your project, it will be worthwhile to give thought to what you  use for waste thread.

Remember that the goal of our using a provisional cast on for something like the Lace Doily Edging is to produce an invisible seam when the beginning and end of the lace strip are joined. What you select as a waste thread can make a difference in success or frustration (or even failure) toward that goal. Here are 5 tips to select a perfect waste thread.

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Tip 1. Use a waste thread that is approximately the same thickness as the actual thread to be used for the project.

If necessary, a bit thinner is ok rather than thicker. Thicker can distort the cast on stitch loops to larger than intended, or have a tendency to pull out the cast on stitch loops when you are later unzipping the chain. However, don’t go too thin either, as that is just more difficult to see and work with than necessary.

Tip 2. Use a waste thread that is smooth.

This makes unzipping easier later on without fear of snagging, distorting, or ripping out a real stitch from the cast on row.

Tip 3. Use a waste thread that is dye fast.

I like to use a waste thread that is a different color than the real thread for the project. This way I can easily see the temporary thread vs. the real stitches. (This will be even more important for our future lace-edged hanky project where we will have the challenge of doing an invisible join that involves grafting in lace pattern itself.)

Pulling a loop of lace thread (white) through the bumps on the back side of a waste thread crochet chain (gold) for each cast on stitch required

Thus, it is important that the color of the waste thread will not rub off nor bleed. Even if the project is not wetted, the heat/sweat from your hands could cause this. A quick test is to pull the waste thread you intend to use through your slightly moist fingers a few times and check for any color transfer. For a more thorough test, read the article Knitting with a variety of yarns in the same project on my HeartStringsFiberArts.com website.

Tip 4: Use a waste thread that is lint free.

Even if the waste thread is dye fast or the same color, you could be later left with a faint line along your otherwise invisible seam line because some fibers from your waste thread transfer to your working thread. A quick test is to run your fingernails over the waste thread you intend to use. If you see fuzz coming off, that is a sign of potential problems.

Tip 5: Use a waste thread that is strong with balanced twist.

Balanced twist means that the thread is neither under-twisted (e.g. breaks easily), nor over-twisted.

A fair amount of twist and body, e.g. crochet thread, is a good indicator. You don’t want the waste thread to easily break when you are unzipping the chain later. A quick test is to hold a piece of the thread between your hands and pull moderately. If it breaks easily, probably better to try a different thread.

But you don’t want the thread over-twisted either; i.e. active twist that will result in the thread cork-screwing and making the waste thread harder to work with now and frustrating to later on.

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Keep these tips in mind for choosing a waste thread when provisionally casting on. The bit of extra time will be worth it to reduce frustration and better the chances of success for a perfect invisible seam.

p.s. These tips will also be helpful for the Lace-edged Hanky project coming up soon.